Jeweled Islamic Textiles

by

Louise W. Mackie

 

 

 

            This paper will address the issue of hierarchies of Islamic textiles by looking at specific wealthy courts located in Islamic Spain and the Middle East. This research is intended to increase our understanding of the types of textiles, often silk, which were featured in court ceremonials and to enhance our ability to evaluate the status of surviving examples. The standards for considering the hierarchies are based on archival sources, medieval accounts, and travelers' descriptions, in addition to interviews conducted in Fez, Morocco. 

            Sources indicate that jeweled textiles were often the most prestigious, yet they have not survived, whereas in at least one instance, brocaded silks which are plentiful today ranked at the very bottom of the scale. The use of gemstones on textiles will be considered in the categories of real gems,  woven or embroidered gems, and gem-like colors. In addition, the use of "gold thread" will be discussed, as well as costly out-of-pocket expenses such as thread and dyes. Finally, a number of patterns will be considered with emphasis on their imperial significance. 

 

 

 

Louise W. Mackie received her M.A. in Islamic Art from the Institute of Fine Arts, New York University. She curated textiles at The Textile Museum and at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto, and currently is curator of textiles and Islamic art at the Cleveland Museum of Art. Her most recent publication is a collaborative book with N. Atasoy, W.B. Denny & H. Tezcan, IPEK Imperial Ottoman Silks and Velvets. Previously, she produced a video, Threads of Time: Handmade Textiles in Fez, Morocco.