Session Abstract
Intense
debate surrounds artisan enterprises as a strategy for sustainable development. Those opposed to artisan work cite low
remuneration, long hours, and intensive training as contrasted with other
income alternatives. In addition,
opponents lament what they perceive as dissolution of craft traditions when
artisans turn to tourist or export markets as development strategies. On the other side, proponents argue that artisan enterprises
can realize income generation while also achieving broader social and cultural goals. Furthermore, advocates counter that craft
traditions have always been dynamic and, in turning to new markets as roads to sustainability, artisans continue
their journey of accumulation, innovation, and transformation. Papers presented in this session will contribute to
the debate by
assessing four artisan enterprises The marketing ofinvolved in marketing
handwoven, dyed,
or embroidered dyed, or embroidered textiles from Africa (Nigeria and
South Africa ) and Asia (Gujarat_____
and Mumbai,
India). through
artisan enterprises has contributed
to the economic well-being of many low-income women living in Africa and India. Organized Initiated in
various ways—by government officials, philanthropists, development workers, and
religious groups, these cooperatives enterprises exhibit a range
of organizational
structures, leadership
opportunities, textile production methods, product styles, and marketing
strategies, and
levels of success in reaching regional, tourism, and global markets. Papers presented in this
two-part panel will examine the workings of six [eight] different handweaving
cooperatives, three in India (in ------, ----, and ----)
and three in Africa (one in Ghana, Nigeria [or]
Senegal, and South Africa). Presenters will consider a variety of
issues including catalysts and constraints to sustainability; accessing
domestic, tourism and international markets; the role of intermediaries in product design and
development; and impacts on capabilities, livelihood, and quality of life among textile artisans. The discussant will explore similarities and
differences in cooperative textile programs
enterprises
that have contributed to their sustainability and to artisans’ economic
lives.
Session organizers and discussant: Mary A. Littrell is Professor in the Textiles and Clothing Program
at Iowa State University, having received her Ph.D. in consumer sciences and
retailing from Purdue University. Her research focuses on issues of business
sustainability and artisan empowerment.
Elisa P. Renne is Assistant Professor in the Department of Anthropology
and the Center for Afroamerican and African Studies at the University of
Michigan, having received a Ph.D. in anthropology from New York University. Her
scholarship centers on ways that textile traditions are selectively preserved
and altered. Hazel A. Lutz, panel
discussant, is a Doctoral Candidate in the Department of Design, Housing and
Apparel at the University of Minnesota.
Her research focuses on tradition and design development in contemporary
India-West Africa trade. .