Malay Silk Textiles: Unraveling the Mysteries of Langkasuka
By Zulkifli Bin Haji Mohamad
This paper examines the tradition of silk weaving in the northern states of Malaysia. I first discuss the foundation of traditional art forms such as silk textile production by providing a background on the historical background of the kingdom of Langkasuka of present-day Malaysia. By recognizing the importance of the development of this kingdom, silk textile production in this area may be understood. Silk weaving is found in the states of Kelantan and Trengganu, dating back to the 14th century CE. Some traditional Malay textiles are the songket, or gold brocade on silk, and the limar, a double ikat silk textile. Weavers in Kelantan believe that the limar was introduced by the Khmer of present-day Cambodia indirectly through trade with the Siamese and also directly by association of the kingdom of Langkasuka of northern Malaysia. However, the weavers of Trengganu disagree and state that the tradition originated from India through trade with Sumatran (Sumatra of Indonesia) kingdoms. Production of the songket has ceased in Kelantan, but is being revived in Trengganu under the patronage of the present sultanate, Tengu Ismail. Lastly, I analyze the background of silk textile production to enable to the preservation and perpetuity of this traditional art in the fast, developing nation of Malaysia since the traditional arts have lost royal patronage and must find alternatives for support.
Zulkifli Bin Haji Mohamad is a Senior
Officer for Tourism, Communication and Culture of the Association of South East
Asian Nations (ASEAN)
and a doctoral candidate at the University of Malaysia. He has presented papers
on textiles at the ASEAN Textile Exhibition in
September 2001, the Artisan of South East Asia textile conference and workshop
in Japan organized by Toyota Foundation and UNESCO in March 2001, the Ethnoarchaeology of South East Asian Textiles
seminar in August 2000, the World Batik Conference, Indonesia, in November1997,
and the International Conference on Business and Cultural Aspects of Textiles
and Clothing, Singapore, in July 1997. Mr. Mohamad is also a professional
traditional Malay and modern dance performer.